The Sustainable Shopping Manifesto

life
Written By Jasnik Moreno

This is not meant to make you feel guilty. 

No, you stop that. No shame, no regrets, what’s done is done.

Great, now that that’s out of the way. Let’s dive in.

We can’t live in this modern western society without encountering an ad for something we don’t need. We all have our vices created by a society of endless consumption. More food, faster than it takes to boil some water for pasta at home. More clothes, faster than it takes for a designer to decide on the theme of this year's show. More tech, faster than it takes for your friend to text you back.

My own particular weaknesses are clothes and books. Up until about 5 years ago I had more of those two things than I could wear or read. Two major things happened around that time that shifted the way I looked at what I bought and owned. One, I moved twice within the span of three months and found myself deeply overwhelmed. During that time, I purged so many pointless things I had bought with money from a job that sucked the life out of me. This made me hyper aware of what really stood the test of time for me and what was worth my energy. And two, I became deeply concerned for the state of our home planet and what these mega conglomerates are stripping its resources for. 

Yoga leggings? Cars? Plastic?

It’s money. Are you surprised? I wasn’t either.

This concern for the state of the planet has sent me down a path of being more mindful of what I consume from the earth. It’s an ongoing journey, but I find that I get better at it with the passing of time and it is my hope that others will too. 

If you made it this far, you’re already on your way to becoming a sustainable consumer.  

What did you call me?

Whether you are completely new to the word “sustainability” or you’ve heard it a million times, you might be wondering what it means exactly? I like how the Environmental Protection Agency puts it: “To pursue sustainability is to create and maintain the conditions under which humans and nature can exist in productive harmony to support present and future generations.” The actual definition of “sustain” is “to be maintained or kept up.” The definition I personally gravitate toward is that sustainability is anything that can keep its function over the long term for the sake of the planet, its people, and our personal fulfillment. 

For example, when we buy something for the sake of the planet, we can ask, “Were the resources used to make this product ethically sourced? Or were hundreds of acres of land mined and pillaged for this new jewelry?” When we buy something for the sake of people, we can ask, “Were the people hired to make this product paid a fair wage for their effort? Was anyone pushed out of their home to make way for some modern convenience?” And when we buy something for the sake of personal fulfillment we can ask, “If I buy this product now, how long will it take for me to have to replace it?” Or even, “Will what I buy bring me joy to use it or am I solely getting joy from the momentary pleasure of buying it?” 

The word sustainability has been thrown around a lot in the last 5 years alone, unfortunately not always in a way that’s honest. 

So, let’s clear the air

As the pressure of climate change has intensified amongst the average consumer, companies have changed the way they market their products as well. Many companies have embraced the “trend” of appearing environmentally responsible, all whilst not taking any accountability on the impact their products have on speeding up the destruction of the planet. They create a look of “eco-friendliness” by using buzzy words, green branding, and misleading labels - this is called “greenwashing.” 

A perfect example is BP, an energy company who changed their name to “Beyond Petroleum'' in 2000. Back in 2019, they created a marketing campaign that branded themselves as a leader in renewable energy and low carbon energy products when in reality more than 96 percent of their spending is on oil and gas. And they aren’t the only oil company to claim they are becoming more environmentally conscious. ExxonMobil, Chevron, and Shell also use words such as “low carbon”, “climate”, and promise “transition” in all their annual reports despite repeatedly not backing off their reliance on fossil fuels. 

Obviously, oil companies are major culprits of trying to mislead consumers, but you’ll find this “greenwashing” happening with companies like Nestle, Fiji, Volkswagen, H&M, and Coca-Cola to name a few. What makes them so keen to mislead us? A couple of studies were released that showed that Gen Z are more likely to spend their money on companies they consider to be more ethical. While with Millennials it’s 73% and across age groups it’s 66% more likely. 

Going off those numbers, it’s clear we do care about the ethics of what we spend our money on. With so much misinformation going around from the companies themselves, it can feel like you are maneuvering past some kind of ecological minefield, it might even feel like too much work. Honestly, sometimes the easiest option is to not shop at all. But before you decide to become a minimalist or escape into the woods, there are a couple things to be aware of and look out for whether you have to or choose to buy something.

Not in my house 

Sustainability has to start from the moment the raw materials are sourced all the way to the end, when the product inevitably ends its life cycle. Take a cotton t-shirt for example. Cotton needs to be irrigated, the more water a product needs, the less sustainable it becomes. If pesticides are used, those are chemicals that are being released into the ground thus contaminating the soil. It’s important to note how much energy is being used when the cotton gets into the processing stage. As well as noting the dyes and chemicals used to treat the spun yarn into fabric and how any excess is being discarded or used. 

Sustainability also takes into consideration those working on the t-shirts. Is the factory an ethical working environment and are the workers being paid their fair share? And even acknowledging if the company’s location is harming the community of people that surrounds it. 

After the processing stage, comes distribution where sustainability’s focus is on fuel emissions and expenses to transport the product to retailers or directly to consumers. If there’s packaging for the product, sustainability has to consider that too. And finally, when the consumer has the product in their possession, this t-shirt for example, how long does it last before it is discarded? That can be up to the consumer or up to the quality of the t-shirt. The longer something lasts in use, the more sustainable. And when the t-shirt’s time is up, does it end up in a landfill never decomposing? Does it get handed down to a younger sibling or best friend? Or does it materialize into thin air leaving no trace of its existence (the ideal situation but not the most realistic)?

A river in China, where the dyes run into the river from factories and tossed clothing.

Yes, it’s a whole lot that goes into this! Luckily, there are certifications that a company can get once it meets certain sustainability standards that makes it easier for a consumer to identify a company's level of commitment to a better future for all. Here’s what to look for:

  • Organically grown : When farms grow organic, they avoid chemicals that would harm the land and water in the surrounding area. This applies to your food as well as the fabric in your clothes.

  • Animal Welfare : There are a variety of labels, some apply to food, others to clothing or cosmetic products. Some examples are the RDS/RWS labels that certify responsibly sourced down or wool. As well as the Certified Raised and Handled label for your food.

  • Recycled : This one can be tricky as it is an easy way to become “greenwashed.” Often things are considered recyclable, but what you need to look for is actually if the product is made from recycled material. It’s an excellent way to give a new more sustainable life to plastic or fishing nets rather than have them end up in the ocean.

  • Forest Stewardship Council Label (FSC) : This certification promotes ethical use of forest land, which is incredibly important if shopping for paper products or anything made from wood. The FSC also looks out for the rights and well-being of Indigenous people.

  • Fair Trade Certification: This indicates that the farmers and workers involved in creating the product were treated equitably and were provided a safe working condition. It also takes care of community development and environmental safety.

  • Bluesign Label : Bluesign shows that the process to make a product conserves energy and resources on every level. It gives strict guidelines to reduce pollution, chemical waste, and emissions as well as make everything a safe and effective working environment.

  • Energy Star : Guarantees energy efficiency, so look for it when considering home appliances.

  • B-Corporation : When in doubt, check to see if the company is B-Corp certified. To be a B-Corp means that the company meets the highest standards of social and environmental ethics and it openly reports their emissions and processes to the public to verify. Some companies that are B-Corps include The Body Shop, Patagonia, BeautyCounter, Athleta, Newly, and Leesa.

One step at a time

I know when I first started this journey towards a more sustainable lifestyle, I felt the pressure to change my habits immediately! But actually the quicker you force the change the less likely it is that your new shopping habits will stick. Think of it like a workout routine or eating healthier. You’ve got to start with small incremental changes, you stack them up after some time, one after the other, and suddenly the habit is second nature. 

With that in mind I want to share some easy habits that you can start stacking. These habits don’t just help the environment but they might also help you save more money and buy things that you really do love and value.

Buy it used or borrow it. Whether you are buying a car, a winter jacket, or camping equipment, why not try to find it used. It’s likely whatever you might need is in perfectly good condition somewhere out there. Not only are there thrift stores and garage sales, but you could find things on Ebay, Poshmark, or check your favorite brand for a gently used section on their website. If you haven’t noticed, many companies have found a market for people who are perfectly happy to buy the returns from unsatisfied consumers for a cheaper price. And if you are just trying something out like a clothing trend or a new hobby, try borrowing the things you might desire from a friend, a neighbor, or a rental store. 

Fix it. There are definitely situations where things don’t work anymore and they must be discarded. But if you can try to patch or sew a jacket or shorts, that would be the better option. Plus you don’t have to waste time looking for a replacement for your favorite clothing item. I have a pair of shorts that had become too big for my waist. I asked my aunt if she could assist me with cinching the waistband a couple of inches and she actually had a friend who was a seamstress who was happy to do it for a small fee. I live in those shorts now.

Avoid single use plastic! Maybe this one is obvious but it’s a good reminder to find ways to minimize your consumption of unnecessary plastic. For example, if you order take out and you’re going to eat it at home anyway, avoid the plastic utensils and avoid packing it into a plastic bag. Additionally, when ordering things online, some companies like Glossier, have the option to request less packaging when shipping your order. If you are just going to toss it afterwards, don’t take the plastic.

Educate yourself. This comes in the form of researching what you’re buying, especially if it’s a bigger ticket item like a camera, car, or a new pair of running shoes. Make sure it ticks all your boxes of what you expect for that item to work for you. It will reduce having to get rid of something before its time and saves you money on replacing it later.

Avoid small or multiple shipments. Try to limit the amount of small orders you make, and if you are going to order multiple things from one retailer, be sure to buy it all at once so they can minimize trips and packaging used. And if you do choose to order something online rather than in store, remember to have online shopping be your substitute rather than pairing it with in-person shopping. It’s either one or the other to lower transport emissions.

Buy locally. So for those of you that opt for in-person shopping, try and look for shops within the community. It helps boost sales of people in your community thus strengthening small businesses near you. I usually opt to buy things like my film stock from my local camera store as well as getting it scanned at a local print shop rather than waiting at a Walmart or Walgreens. It’s usually faster and might even be cheaper.

Develop a personal style. This means understanding what appeals to you and what looks good on you (when relating to clothing). By knowing yourself then you are less likely to buy things to “try it out” and you’ll go into a store with more certainty that a piece of clothing is for you. This means knowing what colors work well for you, the fit that is most comfortable, and how you want to express yourself with your clothing (or home goods). If you aren’t someone that needs to be making fashion statements but does like to look put together, then perhaps creating a capsule wardrobe can work for you.

Slow down and think. This comes down to becoming a more mindful shopper. Ask yourself, “do I really need/want this?” Sometimes, when you’re bored in the evening, unwinding after work, you browse the internet and you say to yourself, “man, I really want these dunks (as in the sneakers not the basketball move)!” Rather than adding them to your cart and buying them, add them to a wishlist. It can be a screenshot folder on your phone or desktop (I have a pinterest board with the link), and revisit the image to see if you still want those “dunks.” If after a couple of weeks, months, or even years, you still want that thing, then of course! Buy it! This not only beats the consuming impulse out of you, it also shows that this item will stand the test of time in your possession.

It’s a collaboration

At the end of the day, this whole climate change situation we find ourselves in is a systemic issue. We live in a capitalist economy where a small number of people hold the keys to creating that major systemic change that our planet so desperately needs. And of course, some people don’t have the privilege of being able to consider more sustainable options and that’s okay, there are other ways to help as well. However, if money is what is keeping these companies from changing their ways, it will help if the people collectively change what they expect from their products, thus pushing corporations to take accountability and show some transparency. We need to vote with our money on the things that matter to us. Sustainable shopping and lowering our consumption rate is the best option next to not buying anything at all. So start thinking, what do you want to sustain and let's work towards that collectively.


Jasnik Moreno
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